This is a step-by-step guide to install the OEM-Integrated Backup Camera for the Chevrolet Camaro from Emerald Mobile Integrations. My installation was on a 2014 1LT automatic, but it should work for any 5th gen Camaro with a factory MyLink unit. No dealer re-programming is required, and now that I’ve figured everything out for you, it’s not that hard to DIY. ;)
If you’re confused at any point, I recommend searching YouTube or the very helpful camaro5.com forums for whatever you’re stuck on.
I am not a professional, and take no responsibility if you fuck up your car or hurt yourself by following these instructions.
What You’ll Need:
- The kit itself (duh)
- Trim Tools or other pry tool
- Socket set
- Soldering equipment
What’s in the box?
You’ll notice there’s actually two power harnesses included. They have different connectors, and the one that comes bundled with the other harnesses is the one you’d use for a Chevy Cruze/Equinox/Volt. Set that cable aside, you won’t be using it.
It also includes two large zip ties and some incredibly brief instructions. You can set those aside too, the following instructions are going to be anything but brief.
1. Solder the camera power connections
Everything’s plug and play except for the power connection between the camera harness and the camera power split cable, which needs to be soldered.
Solder the red to red and the black to red/black stripe, then wrap the connections in electrical tape.
Before you start routing any cables, hook everything up and make sure it all works. You need to access the MyLink hookups, which means popping out the head unit first.
2. Remove shifter trim
If you want to see this in action, check out this YouTube video, that’s how I learned. In case that link ever breaks, here’s the steps:
Pop up the trim on the bottom edge with a pry tool.
Then grab it and pull the whole piece out and slightly up. (If you just pull directly up you’ll crack the trim)
Gently pull it out and unplug the cable on the back. You’ll need to put the car in Drive/Manual to get it over the shifter, which at least on my automatic meant temporarily putting the car in Accessory Mode.
3. Remove head unit
Again, I learned from a YouTube video, but here’s the general steps.
Remove the two screws at the bottom of the unit.
Pull up and out from under the climate controls until the whole thing pops loose.
Pop the bottom edge out of the retaining bracket (where the screws were) by pushing up on the sides and wiggling it. Fair warning: this is a huge pain and will probably take a while. It was the second most annoying part of this whole process – the most annoying part was getting it back in. :\
Once you get it out of the bracket, you’ll need to put the shifter in Manual again to maneuver the whole unit out.
Unplug the two cables in the back, then you can pull it away completely.
4. Plug everything in to test
There’s a lot of cables involved, so I made this wiring diagram:
The Rosen Box will have 3 things plugged into it: the power harness that also goes from the head unit plug to the mylink screen, the display cable coming from the head unit, and the camera harness. The display cable that’s already attached to the box goes into the mylink screen.
Then there’s this little OBD ii extension cable. This plugs into the OBD ii port just under the dash where the driver’s left knee is, and the little blue wire from it connects to the long blue wire coming out of the power harness.
Start the car and put it in reverse – you should see the camera feed on the MyLink screen.
Awwwww yisssssssssss. :D
5. Pull the trim off your wiring path
It’s time to lay down the wires, which means first pulling apart the car so you can route it properly. Since I knew I had to route a wire to the OBD ii port, I decided to go along the driver’s side.
Pull up the trim along the bottom of the door, then remove the bit along the inside where your left foot sits. I removed the fuse cover in this picture as well, though that turned out not to be necessary. These are all pretty easy pieces to remove, just get a hand under the back edge and pull.
Now the real fun begins – to get the backseat side trim off you have to remove the bottom of the seat. There’s two main clips on the front edge in the middle of both ‘seat’ areas. Just pull up on the front of the cushion to disengage them, pull the entire cushion up towards the back of the seat, wiggle the seat-belt buckles through the holes, then lift it out.
Now you can take off the big side trim piece. Start at the bottom front corner and work your way up and back. You’ll need to do some fiddling with the seatbelt and back of the seat to maneuver it off and out.
Removing this piece reveals the hole into the trunk which a bunch of cables are already going through.
Now the trunk! Pull out the bottom liner, then take off the big plastic guard right on the inside lip. This bit’s easy, there’s three big plastic bolts on each side you just unscrew by hand.
Remove the side liner by detaching 3 connectors. One screw-post on the bottom you can unscrew with your fingers, and two ridged plugs on the top of the inside trunk and curled into the seat opening that you have to pry out.
Last piece! The tail light cover is held on by three of these funky dual-level plugs. Pry up the center piece before prying up the outer bit to remove the whole thing.
With that off, the path is clear and you’re ready to install the camera.
I was piling all of this on top of my car as I went along, which got me some very confused looks from my neighbors:
6. Install the camera & route the wire
My car already had a hole in the right place with a sheet of plastic plugging it up. If yours doesn’t have that you’ll have to drill a hole directly in the metal.
Pop that piece of plastic out and drill a hole for the camera using the hole saw that came in the camera kit. I don’t have any kind of workshop setup, so getting this thing clamped was problematic. My hole came out a little off center but by that point I gave 0 fucks.
Pull the camera wiring through and push the camera in place. To make this easier, the wire actually comes apart at that thicker black section resting just under the camera in this picture. (of course, I didn’t realize that until after I’d pulled all 20 feet of cable through)
Pop out the driver’s side license plate light to get access, and put the camera in.
If you look into the hole from the plate late you can see a bit of daylight where the cavity opens into the tail light area. Draw the wire up through there with something long, thin, and rigid – I used the handle of a cat toy, because I’m cool like that.
Zip tie it to some of the existing cables in this area, then route it into the trunk by poking a hole in the plastic cover thing the existing cables go through. Note that this does break a weather-proof seal, but you can restore it with some hot glue if you decide you care about that.
Now just follow the route of the existing wiring through the trunk, zip-tieing as you go.
As you can see, this is when I ran out of the shortened camera wire and re-attached the super-long extension.
Keep going along the back seat.
Once you get down to the door trim there’s nifty little raceways, so pop those open and just lay the cable inside those.
Leave the rest of that cable in the driver’s footwell for now.
7. Place the Rosen Box & route cables to it
Time to choose where this box is going to live – it’s not OEM so there isn’t a designated spot for it in the vehicle. After some extensive poking around I decided to put mine inside the dash between the head unit and the glovebox. There’s a convenient little niche there that keeps it hidden and tucked away from any moving parts.
To get there, first you need to pull out the glovebox, which is pretty simple. Disconnect the stretchy cord on the right side, push in on the side walls of the glovebox until they clear the tracks and it swings further down, then wiggle it towards you until it comes out of the latches at the back.
The niche I’m talking about is on the upper left side of the glovebox.
Here’s what you’ll see if you look in there:
And here it is with the box set in place:
Now you need to get all the cords traveling in the right direction. Start with the easy ones, the two that are coming out around the head unit.
The display cable is easy, you can just reach through from the glovebox hole and grab it.
Next the harness on the bottom. This is a little trickier, but there’s a hole behind the console side trim you can snag it from. Add the power harness, pull the Rosen Box connector up through the glove box, and push the new MyLink connector back to the original position.
Now for the OBD II extension. The existing port fits in with a a little snap, but the new one, despite having this fancy connector-looking end, doesn’t. (maybe it fits the Cruze/Equinox/Volt) I solved this problem with zip ties – we’ll see what the dealer says next time it goes in for maintenance…
The blue wire from the power harness needs to go over to the driver’s side, and the end of the camera cable needs to go over to the passenger’s side. Route them both behind the console side trim and through the gap under the head unit.
Everything’s in the right place, connect it all and zip tie it away. You’ll have a ton of extra camera cable, it can be stuffed in that gap under the head unit. Be sure to secure the cables under the driver’s side dash well away from any of the moving parts.
Start ‘er up and admire the view from behind. If you don’t see the video feed, go back to the wiring diagram and make sure everything’s connected right.
If it all works, tuck the Rosen Box in place with all the cables along the front so it’s flush against the piece of frame and use the large zip ties from the kit to attach it. Use some smaller zip ties to secure the cables so they don’t hit the glovebox when it’s in place.
You’re done!…. except now you have to put your car back together.